Kamakura And Beyond

I was on a high after Nikko. I finally felt comfortable in Japan. I am managing to get around ok and find accommodation without too much hassle. The language barrier isn't causing a problem and I actually know more than most foreigners I speak to (that says more about their lack of knowledge. I don't want you thinking that I'm some Japanese pro!). All in all I thought I was doing ok.

Back at the hostel I washed my hair and entered the fruitless task of straightening it. Even though I knew deep down that as soon as I would walk outside it would poof up, I carried on just because I miss the feeling of having nice hair. I was hoping that, indoors at least, I could have ok hair. It was at this point that I met some American travellers who arrived in Japan and intended to trek Fuji. They were all pretty friendly. I've actually made more friends with guys than girls (so far 6 guys and 2 girls). I can't think of any reason why. It just happens to be that I have met more friendly guys than girls!

I couldn't really sleep that night as I had Kamakura on the brain. Should I stay overnight or try and tackle it in a day. I walked round Nikko's sights within a couple of hours so felt confident that I could manage it in a day. I decided to pay for another night at the hostel in Asakusa. Lonely Planet said that Kamakura is manageable by foot. Even though their directions have spun me round in circles I trusted them. Ha! What a joke. By bus, yes...if you can understand Japanese and know the names of each of the stops. Even if the day was cooler, I still wouldn't recommend doing Kamakura by foot in a day. Obviously hindsight is a wonderful thing but what I didn't know at this point is that I made the perfect decision and it would lead me on to one of the best days I've had so far in Japan.

Leaving Kamakura station with map firmly in hand I was, at this point, still naively optimistic that I had plenty of time to see visit the places I wanted. I had marked five Zen temples which, according to the map, are considered to be of the highest ranking in Japan - the Kamakura-Gozan. I also wanted to see the Hachimangu Shrine, the Daibutsu (big budda) and if I had time I wanted to see the Hasedera temple. This may seem like a lot but it formed a nice loop on my map. I was going to walk but a local pointed me in the direction of a bus which went to the first place on my map. I followed a family who were also visiting the same temple. So far, so good.

I was in a bit of a cheery mood as I'd just photographed this:

That's right people. You don't even have to flush.

I've started it so now I will continue this random trend of finding high-tech loos. There are some people out there who forget to flush so this is a necessary gadget.

Where was I? Oh yes, first stop Jomyogi temple. There wasn't much to see as the temple was quite small but the trees were showing the first sign of autumn which made the garden look postcard-pretty.

I love the nature here. Even Japan's trees are neat and tidy!

Jomyogi Temple

Zen garden

Flora

After wandering around and taking a few too many shots of flowers (!) I decided to move on. I looked at the map and estimated around a 10 minute walk. I had no idea which bus would get me to the next place so I attempted to walk it. My usual lazy morning disposition came back to haunt me today. Rather than think about what I was wearing I just shoved on what was at the front of my bag. A skirt with black leggings in the Japanese heat. What was I thinking! I was getting some odd stares from the locals. It could be the streams of sweat pouring down me or my Sideshow Bob hair do. I was too tired to care. I walked away from the temple and towards what I hoped to be Hachimangu Shrine. Five minutes later I had to stop and wait for a bus. I boarded a bus and the air con hit me like a sea of tiny kisses. I pointed to the map and wheezed the key words "shrine...how far?..This bus stop...there?" I was told it was the next stop. The tight git that I am decided to save the yen and walk round the corner. I bid a tearful farewell to the air con and plodded on. Rightly so, around the next corner I was greeted with this sight:

I made it!

Bridge entrance

Wow. The towering shrine was quite an ovewhelming sight.

I got told off for taking this photo. I didn't see a no photography sign. Then I thought about it - these people are praying and should be left at peace and not have a camera wielded in front of their faces. Well I used the zoom so it wasn't directly in their faces but you get what I mean.

The walk from Jomyogi to the shrine wasn't too far and the next temple was a lot closer to the shrine so didn't think I had much of a walk on my hands. The main problem I faced was which direction to turn. From past experience turning right is not an option. I was literally at a crossroads. I started walking in one direction but thought I best ask for directions. Even though I must have resembled an escaped mental patient, I thought I'd rather scare and offend a local than get lost again. This just happened to be the best decision I ever made.

Ayumu and Sayoko (another Sayoko!) tried their best to read the map but wasn't too sure themselves so offered to walk with me. This wasn't an unusual offer as I have found that most locals don't mind walking with you rather than giving directions. I think this is a safety mechanism in case they make a mistake with their English as well as an act of kindness. I have found that the locals that I speak to feel that their English isn't very good but this is not true at all. Ayumu knew enough English to keep the conversation going but Sayoko didn't know that much and was very shy.

A while later we finally made it to the second of the five temples marked on my map - Kenchoji Temple. Ayumu and Sayoko were also in Kamakura on a day trip and decided to join me in the temple. Without realising, Ayumu paid for my entry ticket.

Again, wow. I felt like a midget stood next to this structure.

Obviously some people have mistaken this as a drinking fountain. I was pretty thirsty but I think I'd draw the line at water fountain dipping.

Neither of us knew what these doors were but they looked nice so made a perfect photo opportunity.

The wonderful Sayoko and Ayumu :)

Ayumu asked me where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see. There was never a point where either of us asked each other to go to each place together. It just happened.

I'm not sure what Tommy Lee Jones has to do with coffee. Random.

Ayumu asked the temple staff where the bus stop is and explained where we wanted to go. He then changed his mind and called and booked a taxi. Even though I knew it would be quite pricey, again I was too tired to question it. Let's just go with it and see what happens. The next stop was Jochiji Temple which was another of the five temples. The temple was so small that the taxi driver had difficulty locating it. There was about three or four temples along the street so I understood the challenge for the driver! All the transport staff in Japan are immaculately dressed and wear hats and white gloves. It felt more like a chauffeur experience - a far cry from the taxi driving situations experienced at home. The taxi driver waited until we finished at the temple and took us to the Daibutsu. I was dreading the taxi fee but was having a great time with Ayumu and Sayoko. Ayumu was very eager to understand more about the English culture and my opinions of Japan so far. He was interested to know what was different and every now and then he would point things out and ask if we have that kind of thing in England. We had an interesting conversation about football as Ayumu is a keen fan of Japanese football and asked whether I liked football. He thought that English women don't like football. He said that Manchester United were a popular team in Japan and people still like David Beckham. He couldn't remember the name of the other player who is also well known in Japan. He point to his head and said operation...hair...I twigged straight away. Wayne Rooney! Hahaha.

Entrance to Jochiji Temple

Daibutsu

Ayumu refused to take any money for the taxi or the entry fees. He wouldn't even take my money for a vending machine drink. I couldn't believe the generosity and kindness they both showed me that day. It will stay with me for a very long time.

Me and Sayoko

People would say a prayer or wish fortune/good health for their families and scoop the incense clouds on to themselves to seal this process. Although I'm not religious I decided to say a little something for my parents. I washed my hands using the ladle and water stream earlier which Ayumu explained is done in preparation for prayer. Some people also drink from the pool but I decided not to go that far.

We all viewed the inside of the budda too which was surreal. Ayumu recommended we visit Hasedera Temple before we leave for the day. So far I had visited three of the five temples, Hachimangu Shrine and the budda. I wouldn't have made it to half of those places without Ayumu and Sayoko. I was so thankful to them.

View of the sea from Hasedera Temple

We spoke earlier about my experiences with food and what I have enjoyed so far. Ayumu nearly fainted when I said I'd never tried sushi before. I'm in the perfect place to try it for the first time though! Ayumu invited me to have dinner and I jumped at the chance to spend more time with them. Ayumu was so funny and Sayoko was so sweet. Ayumu translated for Sayoko at times and I felt really guilty that I didn't know enough Japanese to carry a conversation.

It was early evening and I wasn't hungry yet. I stuffed my face at a deli back at Kamkura station so I was still pleasantly full from lunch. We got the train to Ayumu's car (a very swish BMW with a TV/Sat Nav/music player!) and he drove into Tokyo. We decided to delay eating and visit the Tokyo Tower. Mike, the American I met in the hostel the previous night, had been to the tower and said it was a great experience so I was really excited. Great heights do make me a little nervous but I knew that the views would be fantastic. In my excitement I forgot my Joby tripod which I was really annoyed at. I was hoping I could still take some great photos with a semi-steady hand.

View from 150 metres

I looked down...eugh.

I loved this intersection of road that felt like a vein within Tokyo. Ayumu explained that Tokyo is not as bright as it used to be. Since the earthquake, Japan as a whole aims to cut its energy use by 25%. 

I really wish I could have gotten a better photo. There were perspex or glass sections where you can look directly down. Even though it was sturdy enough, the psychological torment of walking over the section really messed with my head. I took this photo and videoed myself doing it too. The glare from the lights kind of deviates from the magnitude of this feat. It was freaky!

We went up to the next observatory at 250m. Both elevator rides had clear screens so you could see the view up and the view down which was interesting, ahem. I did take some photos but I wasn't happy enough with them to put them on my blog.

View from the bottom

Close up

Even closer close-up

Again Ayumu refused my money. He said that he is very grateful to the UK for their help with the aftermath of the earthquake and thanked me for visiting Japan despite this and the media frenzy that ensued. Ayumu was so sweet and I found his kindness astonishing. You certainly wouldn't get this kind of treatment in England. Ayumu joked about it being his first time up the tower and referenced Madame Tussauds as a popular tourist attraction that's there but not every local has been inside. He made a valid point. Ayumu asked if we have anything like this in England. I had to have a bit of a think. Nothing sprang to mind but I thought I best think this through in case I am mistaken. I then remembered the London Eye and tried to describe what it was. The concept of a wheel confused Ayumu but then when I explained it further it all became clear. There were a lot of moments like this where we were both lost in translation but in a funny endearing way.

With our feet firmly on the ground, our stomachs needed filling. I didn't realise that the fish market closes on a Sunday so finding a decent sushi bar (that sold fresh sushi) would be a challenge. It was no problem at all for Ayumu but I did feel bad that we had to drive round for a while until we found a place. Ayumu and Sayoko chose a platter of various pieces from the safe to the experimental.

Starter - an eggy fishy thing which was very yummy. There were two hard yellow balls at the bottom. I asked Ayumu what these were but he was unsure of what the English translation was so sought an answer from his phone. With no luck he asked the waiter. I heard the word nuts and was a bit suspicious as there were two of these spherical fellows at the bottom of the cup. Now are these nuts from an animal or from a plant. Turns out they were from a plant. Phew.

This is the real deal. I had the eggy thing, medium fatty tuna, shrimp and sea urchin (not on this platter). Seen as my stomach had shrank from the non-eating at the beginning of my trip, I was struggling. The food was so good though and I didn't want to offend Ayumu and Sayoko. I tried to explain why I was getting so full but they didn't believe me. They thought I didn't like the sushi.

The best tempura in the world.

This was all washed down with Japanese beer - Asahi. I'm not usually a beer fan but this stuff is awesome. Smooth and kind on the stomach. It doesn't fill you up so there's still room for plenty of food.

Can't. Move. Too. Full. To. Speak....Great food. Great company. As I thanked Ayumu for his hospitality and explained that today had been the best day of my trip so far, he too said they both had a great day and I was good company. They both gave me their email addresses and explained that if I ever need anything in Japan, to email them.

I was sad that the day was over but was equally tired from the heat and constant walking. We stopped at traffic lights and Ayumu turned to me and asked if I'd like a coffee. I asked if he wanted a coffee to make sure that he wasn't asking out of politeness. He said yes and then asked if I wanted dessert. Ok, I now want to be adopted by these people. I suggested ice cream as I wasn't sure whether I could squeeze anything else in. It was quite late, but as you all may know, Tokyo never sleeps. We found a nice little cafe which had cake...CAKE!! Everything looked so delicious. As soon as I cast my eyes on the counter my stomach shifted in agreement. Yes, there is room for cake. There will always be room for cake. Ayumu said "all women like cake". Amen.

Heaven on a plate

I thought I could order a slice of this cake. When the waitress explained that the cake comes as a whole I thought nooooooooooo, whhhhhyyyyy but said "oh, ok. What else is there that's chocolate?" Then Ayumu said that the waitress could cut me a slice of the cake and I could have the rest the next day. As this was a whole cake, although miniature, I thought it must be pricey. I can't accept this. Ayumu insisted. I didn't take much persuading! I had the rest for breakfast the next day. This happened to be the best chocolate cake I have ever eaten, and I have eaten a lot of chocolate cake. The cakes here are so light which means you can eat more in one sitting. Perfect.

Ayumu drove me back to the hostel rather than the train station which, again, was brilliantly kind of him. We both said our goodbyes and I walked up to my dorm bed wondering whether all that was a dream. If I had planned on staying the night, I would have spent longer at the TIC and gone straight to the hostel to drop my stuff off and wouldn't have worried too much about directions as I'd have two days to aimlessly wander around. It's incredible luck that the first people I asked for directions were Ayumu and Sayoko. The loveliest couple in Japan. 

I will be going to Kyoto tomorrow by night bus. I splurged a bit on a comfier seat. Hopefully it will be a pleasant ride. Everything and everywhere in Japan is neat, tidy and in order so I wouldn't expect anything less from their buses.