A Trail Of Breadcrumbs Is All It Takes

As you all know, despite the kerfuffle over my bus ticket, I eventually made it to Kyoto. I am currently staying in the cleanest dorm I have ever been in. It's a bargain too. Two thousand Yen a night and free internet. The shower is disappointing though. I stayed in the same branch back in Tokyo - Khaosan. The shower nearly tore my skin off it was that powerful. This branch it's just a dribble. Like Goldilocks I'm sure I will find my perfect shower eventually. I'm sure you didn't click on my blog to read about my showering activities! I have done things too.

I decided to wait at Kyoto station for the Tourist Information Office to open and grab a map. This was my excuse. I really just wanted to sit down and rest. The beast had almost claimed its first life. I sat and had an iced chocolate latte. I'm not really a coffee fan but it was very nice and the caffeine boost a bonus. I was about to read my book when an elderly Japanese guy asked if it was ok to talk. He's studying English and was outwardly itching to test his skills. He was really sweet and I tried my best to look like I wasn't going to nose-dive into my latte. Soon enough I got my map and was on my way to the hostel. To save time and the awkward moment where I have to almost mime what I am saying - sometimes talking slowly and pointing doesn't work so I have to gesture sleep/food/transport...you get the idea - I reserved a room for three nights beforehand. Well, technically Ulas (remember ice cream guy?) did and the reason why I mention this will be clear shortly.

After a confusing subway route and a few steps more I made it to the hostel. I threw off the beast with relief and explained that I have a reservation. They could not find my name. Lovely. I repeated my name a few times and they eventually found me. The booking was for the following weekend. Thanks Ulas (I anticipate a rebuttal. Please ignore, haha). I couldn't properly check-in until 3pm but I was just happy to offload the beast and potter around for a bit. I've been emailing Maluen since our Fuji trek and we just happened to be in Kyoto at the same time. We were in the middle of arranging a time and place but nothing had been confirmed. I was about to move my stuff into storage when the receptionist handed me a map and said my friend had been in earlier and left me a message. On the map was a time, a name and the meeting point was circled. Maluen had been in earlier to see if I had arrived but I was still nudging myself awake at the station. I was so excited. It was like a trail of breadcrumbs. What can I say, I'm easily pleased. The effort that he went to was very endearing.

I managed to navigate myself to the meeting point in good time. Maluen rolled up on his rental bike even more tanned than the last time I saw him. It was so great to see a friendly face. We had lunch and agreed to meet at Kyoto Station later. He could tell that I was on the verge of collapse and I certainly wasn't prepared to jog by his side whilst he cycled around Kyoto.

Later in the evening I met Maluen. In place of a restaurant reservation we shared a step outside the station's shopping centre. In place of candlelight, we had this:

A rainbow fountain display! To some weird opera music but still...

It was a pretty sight and Maluen even gave me a piece of his knock-down sushi. It all added together to make a pleasant evening. Maluen decided that he had seen all he wanted from Kyoto and was going to attempt to hitch a ride to Nara. I forgot to mention, Maluen is on a very tight budget. He pitches his tent in parks and hitchhikes as much as possible. I don't think I could ever be so bohemian. I'll stick to my dorms and dodgy showers thanks.

******

The next day I was in no better a mood to be active. Now I know only too well of the desert heat that awaits outside, I crave my bed and air conditioning more than I do the sweltering beams of hell outside. Most people would be purple by now. I'm a freckly shade of egg-shell. I have a year to top it up so I'm hoping I'll come back looking like I've been backpacking a year and not locked in a hotel room playing about with Photoshop.

In my lazy mode, I decided to visit two temples nearby which Maluen recommended. 

Lunch on the go - nom nom

Ha, or not. I'll hold on to it thanks.

I saw some funny sights. In Nara and Miyajima they have deer. In Kyoto they have...

Pigeon lover!

They even get in on the cleanse-pray action. A few minutes later a couple of Japanese teenagers drank the water from the ladles. There is a sign that says not to drink the water. Now I know why. Yuck.

Beautiful day and another chance to drool over the mind-blowing architecture.

This proverb struck a chord with me.

This is the point where I met this crazy old Japanese lady. I kept chuckling to myself as it was like the situation in the movies where the warrior or protagonist is lead around by the wise old lady who points at things. I'm trying to think of a brilliant example to support this idea and all I think of is the moment in What Women Want where Mel Gibson tries to find the suicidal assistant in Chinatown. Not quite the vivid picture I was wanting to paint, but hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say here! Hmm, anyway, the only English this lady knew was England/English, toilet, yes and cloud. Very strange. I don't think I can put into words how bizarre my day was. This dear battleaxe prodded and shoved me around two temples. Half her top-row teeth were missing and I was scared she might beat me if I ran away. The lady grabbed hold of anyone she thought might speak English and asked them to translate what she was saying and show me round. It was very embarrassing. This went on for most of the day.

We went to the next temple, Nishi Hongwanji, which was currently draped in many shades of vibrant colours to mark Shinran Shonin's 750th Grand Memorial. I caught the main part of the ceremony and, thanks to my new bullying acquaintance, managed to find the best places to take photographs. By this I mean I was dragged and prodded around and beckoned to take photos. Of course, I did as she wished, partly as it was a fantastic opportunity and partly because I was afraid what she'd do if I didn't. Here's a few of the many photos I took:

I have a photo where the man on the right isn't looking but I prefer this one.

The noise that these instruments made in unison was incredible.

I was reasonably happy with this photo as I didn't think I could get closer...

I got closer :D

I had no idea what was being said but the ceremony was very colourful and exquisite. As the ceremony was in full swing, by the time I sat down I thought I best not take any photos. I didn't want to disturb anybody. I tried to get some as I left but they're all a bit blurry. It was a great experience though.

I was sightseeing yesterday and briefly today but I shall leave that for a separate post. No random freebies in Kyoto yet and no random acts of kindness either. Despite this, I have seen a lot of wonderful sights and Kyoto is slowly growing on me. I just wish the gaijin would cheer up a bit!